“As I have a bit of an inside scoop on what brands will be launching next year, I think we can expect to see a lot of serums focused on hyperpigmentation that actually deal with the problem — and not vitamin C serums,” says Lartey. In fact, she recently told R29 that vitamin C is one of the worst skincare ingredients for tackling serious pigmentation, especially for her Black and brown clients. In Lartey’s view, there are other ingredients that do a much better job. First up: kojic acid, which minimizes excess melanin and brightens skin. Secondly, azelaic acid, which is anti-inflammatory and improves skin tone. Thirdly, alpha arbutin, which helps fade discoloration. Dr. Ejikeme rates the skincare ingredient thiamidol, which controls excess pigment in the skin. “All of the products in the Eucerin Anti-Pigment range contain thiamidol, an effective and patented ingredient that acts at the root cause of hyperpigmentation by reducing the appearance of dark spots,” Dr. Ejikeme tells R29.
